By Mark De Giorgio
A known cause of failure of the 9000 4-cylinder engine is blockage
of the oil pick-up strainer in the sump (oil pan). Here Mark describes
the procedure for removing and replacing the sump and cleaning the oil
- Drain the oil.
- Remove the upper engine mount as you have to jack the engine up
quite a bit.
- Remove offside front wheel (timing chain side) and inner arch.
- Remove exhaust downpipe and centre rubber hangers. I removed the
oil filter which allowed
me to drop the exhaust more and cable tie out of the way of the sump.
- Undo all the sump bolts not forgetting the ones which are hidden
by the clutch splash cover. You neem a 3/8 drive socket and extension
here, also the larger bolt which connects the sump to the gearbox
- Remove both hydraulic mounting centre bolts and oil level sender
connector, also unclip the sender cable clip from the sump.
- Put a hydraulic jack with a piece of 3x1 wood packer under the
crankshaft pulley and slowly jack the engine up. Keep a eye on any
of the water flexible hoses or anything else that might become tight
when the engine moves up. I lifted it up about 4" and didn't
encounter anything catching etc.
- Using the cast in leverage points on the sump break the seal. If
it doesn't come away easily double check all the bolts. Easy to miss
- In my case, struggle to get the sump out of the awkward space,
but after lifting the engine up a bit more it slips out easily. Note,
you don't need to remove the clutch splash guard.
- Wash your hands and have a cup of tea...I did this the other way
round and the wife wasn't very happy with the state of the cup!
- Remove the inner sump cover and be amazed at how clean/dirty it
is in the bottom. Remove the 2 6mm bolts which hold the filter in
place and remove filter. Be amazed at how clean/dirty the wire mesh
- Clean the sump, suction filter and mating faces on the engine block
- Buy 2 new o rings to change the sump filter pipe seal and the mating
face seal. Purely piece of mind here. Refit sump filter and inner
- Buy a tube of Wynnes gasket maker, its a pressurised tube with
a excellent control lever on it, as you need to put the sump back
into place without gasket goo on. Doing it this way means you don't
accidently scrape any sealant off the block mating surface when you
juggle the sump back into position.
- Once the sump is located in place it will be supported about 2"
from the block. I then moved it forward and using the gasket maker
put the sealant onto the back face of the block sealing surface and
as far down the sides as possible, making sure to circle the bolt
holes, then I moved the sump backwards until it was back in its correct
postion but still with the 2" gap and finished off applying the
sealant to the front section of the block and down the sides until
all the mating surface was covered.
- Carefully lift the sump up and locate by using a couple of bolts
on either side. Slowly tighten these up ensuring the sump is going
on square. You have about 15 minutes, IIRC, to get the rest of the
bolts in before the sealant starts to go off. Put all the easy ones
in first and tighten progressively down, this will take the pressure
off struggling with the few hard to reach ones behind the drive shaft,
clutch splash guard etc.
- Get torque wrench and tighten all to the correct torque, which
I forgot, think its about 15lb.ft.
Lower engine back onto the hydraulic mounts and refit the 2 centre
Refit the top engine mount.
- Untie the exhaust and lift into place before you put a new oil filter
on as it won't go past...3" JT won't, standard might.
- Fit new filter, refit sump plug, reconnect level sensor and reclip
- Have another cup of tea whilst the sealant goes off, then refill
with good oil.
- Disconnect the DI rail connector and turn the engine over until
the oil light goes out.
- Reconnect DI and start engine and check for leaks.
- No leaks, replace inner arch and wheel, if it leaks scream and shout....but
in my case it worked perfectly.